Rear bump stops? New shocks leaking (TJ Sedan strut/shock absorber)

[leadfoot6]

Can't think of any possible reasons for failure... I see there are rubber bump stops so I don't think they bottom out [I want to buy new ones but cannot find what to get, can someone link a pair?]; left-rear started leaking ~2 months ago, right-rear seems to have started leaking very recently - probably has only driven 6000-9000km with new suspension setup



It is too late Not sure I want a firmer ride though it is already MUCH firmer than original [speed bumps quite harsh on the front at least]. Anyway I literally just picked one up yesterday (thinking only the LR shock was failed but as I jacked car up yesterday to replace it, the RR is very visibly leaking somewhat profusely, small pool of oil on driveway today... it wasn't leaking a week ago when car was hoisted for tyre change it only had this red sandy/sugary looking material visible, LR has been leaking for a while at that point)

LEFT-REAR (been leaking for at least 2months)
RIGHT-REAR (1 week ago, leaking now)

it's a goddam nightmare, just what I needed after spending past 5 days prepping and painting a salvaged VRX body kit/rear bumper for my TJ no time to relax

@Spetz , mitsfix msgd me saying it is past 'one year since purchase' (even tho mitsfix store says all warranties are BACK TO BASE and manufacturer warranty is longer than 1 year, I don't understand) so I have to go directly to Sachs/ZF + and incorrect installation voids it

It is too late Not sure I want a firmer ride though it is already MUCH firmer than original [speed bumps quite harsh on the front at least].

What you are experiencing is a mismatch between the spring rate and the rate of damping that the shock absorbers(the technically correct term for shock absorbers is "dampers" - but Australians seem loath to use it) are specified at.

The lowered Dobinsons springs are made of stiffer/thicker coil winds to stop the car bottoming out due to the reduced ride height.

Your current Sachs parts are "underdamped" and the valving in them is not firm enough to contain the energy in the spring.

That's why I turfed mine after less than 10,000km.

But they didn't leak.

Yes, my car rides firmer.....but it is CONTROLLED BETTER by using the Konis, both on "bump"(compression stroke) and "rebound"(expansion stroke).

Anyway, I had a wheel alignment done 2 weeks ago at Bob Jane Nowra as the fronts were wearing too much on the outer edges.....

.....too much toe in(front and rear) at the last wheel alignment 12 months ago at Mitsfix.

$75 at B J's including 2 tyres rotated(the LHS which I did not bother to do myself after my episode with the stripped wheel stud).

See the image below for the current settings.


The car is significantly improved, especially through the twisty Kiama Bends.

I am now fully used to the bigger 22mm rear anti sway bar, and the new alignment seems to be really complementing it.

Very slightly less stable at the straight ahead(due to less toe in-crosswinds a little more noticeable), but better in the corners.

And still arrow straight.

My car is lowered about 30mm front and rear on Dobinsons Low.

No camber bolts or other trickery at this stage, other than most bushes/control arms having been renewed.

It's still a big, heavy car(and the driver is not helping in this respect), but gradually it is really starting to behave itself.

Under almost all situations, it just such a pleasure to drive.

I have got absolutely no idea what could replace it if it were ever stolen/written off etc.





(click on image to enlarge)



(image 1&2 - standard ride height & stock 16" wheels prior to lowering 3 years ago.....last image as it is now on 17" VRX wheels)